David Barzelay knows how to throw a party. He does so nightly at Lazy Bear, his Michelin-starred gastro-fete that unspools each evening with cocktails upstairs before everyone proceeds to the communal tables below. At True Laurel, he flips the script, putting the spotlight on cocktail virtuoso Nicolas Torres, who is known for going to great lengths to perfect his conjurings. What you’re drinking: The Quince-añera. It involves a Mexican spirit called sotol that’s infused with roasted quince; to that Torres adds a syrup generated from quince that’s come from a sous-vide bath.